Vicksburg

Vicksburg, Mississippi

Vicksburg

A decisive battlefield, a resurrected ironclad, air-conditioned splendor—and victory in the free-beer round.

August 26, 2026 · Words and photographs by Michael Berglund

Beauty and the Beast parked beneath bright lights at Ameristar RV Park at night — The beautiful Ameristar RV Park. Sometimes camping is just a place to park.

Axel giving a skeptical sideways glance inside the trailer — Safe. No wasps. Axel remained unconvinced.

Here we are in the beautiful Ameristar RV Park. Principal attraction for people who are not us: Proximity to the casino. Sometimes camping is just a place to park. We are used to that being the case, but it’s definitely in contrast to the camping-in-nature fantasy that we carry around. Well, at least it’s safe and no wasps. Though there are these nasty little ants that like to bite if you’re in sandals.

Paula standing beside a line of cannons on the steep green terrain at Vicksburg National Military Park — The terrain is the revelation.

We popped back up here after Natchez to see the battlefield. A decisive battle of the Civil War, and a worthy stop. The biggest reveal from actually visiting is the terrain. All these abstract battles and troop movements you read about pale when you stand there and say “wait, guys had to climb that steep hill with a thousand guys at the top shooting down at them?” And it’s 100 degrees and you can hardly wait to get back in the air conditioned truck and munch on a snack as you trundle on by.

A line of Civil War cannons and a tall white monument on the Vicksburg battlefield — Troop movements become considerably less abstract in person.

The equestrian monument to Ulysses S. Grant at Vicksburg National Military Park — Ulysses S. Grant surveys the field.

Michael and Paula above the Mississippi River at Vicksburg — The Mississippi River from the heights at Vicksburg.

The resurrected “Cairo” Ironclad boat was particularly impressive, both in its original construction and the scale of the recovery effort. Amazing that it exists and we can see it.

The recovered remains of the USS Cairo ironclad beneath its protective canopy — USS Cairo—raised from the Yazoo River and painstakingly preserved.

Michael and Paula in front of the recovered USS Cairo — Amazing that it exists and we can see it.

Paula resting in a rocking chair on the porch at Walnut Hills Restaurant — A strategic retreat to Walnut Hills.

Michael and Paula with fried chicken and Southern sides at Walnut Hills — History-nerd provisions.

Not as much activity or attractions here as in Natchez and that’s fine. It is still ridiculously hot and humid and I had some artwork to do so we hung out in the trailer in air conditioned splendor. We held our own in a trivia night at a local brewery, coming in fourth of eight—by just a couple points—against three teams that had eight people each! We did win the free beer lightning round so drowned our sorrows in a tasty Belgian Tripel.

Paula and Michael celebrating with beers at Key City Brewing in Vicksburg — Free-beer lightning-round champions.

Drive day tomorrow as we leave Mississippi and head for Alabama. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time in Mississippi, exceeded our expectations and imagination at every turn. Southern hospitality for the win, so far!

Selma