Now: the Southlands
Morning—and southward
Next stop: Twain country
South along the river
One more night in town
And then the plan went sideways
Now turn up the music
Keep driving south

Hannibal · St. Louis · Tupelo · The Delta · Natchez

Beautiful Humans

It is an embarrassment of human richness, kindness, and amazing stories that we have encountered down here.

Michael and Paula with new friends outside a historic Natchez house
At the end of dinner in Natchez, after the mayor played piano and sang us a song. Did that just happen?

We have had more remarkable interactions with amazing humans than we know how to process so far. This is a very special trip that goes beyond the road to the heart. Again, it is too much to really put fancy prose to—but how can it be that we have had time on the planet with these amazing people in the past week?

Michael and Paula with Brenda at Aunt B's Soul Food
Tupelo, Mississippi

Brenda at Aunt B’s

Eating her delicious soul food and hearing about her remarkable family lineage. Could folks be any friendlier?

Paula touring the Riverside Hotel
Clarksdale, Mississippi

Called back to the Riverside

A young descendant of the original owners spent two years in Japan, but felt his family and history beckoning him back to preserve this landmark. A monumental task.

Michael and Paula with Deak Harp
Clarksdale, Mississippi

A beer and an impromptu concert

An eclectic harmonica shop, a refrigerator we were invited to raid, a workbench where harps are transformed—and the blues played a few feet away.

Michael and Paula with a local artist at Robert Johnson's gravesite
Near Greenwood, Mississippi

A grave, an artist, a spirit

A generous woman took us to Robert Johnson’s gravesite and told us about her deep connection to the place, the people who created art there, her jewelry and her life—oh, and her time with B.B. King.

Michael and Paula with a woman at the Blue Biscuit Cafe
Indianola, Mississippi

The Blue Biscuit

A friend of hers spent time with us talking about Mississippi, cheffing for Morgan Freeman, and wishing we could stay longer—because wouldn’t that be fun?

Sumner, Mississippi

The photograph we didn’t take

A man drives by, rolls down his window and tells us he may be the only living person who was actually in the courthouse for the Emmett Till trial. Our independent research bears this out. REALLY. We spent twenty minutes talking history, race relations, cotton farming, and restaurant recommendations in nearby towns.

He’s 93 and amazing. Living history. So generous to stop and chat. We did not get a picture of this, sadly.

Some encounters live only in memory.
Brenda beside Paula and a plate of soul food
Lunch at Aunt B’s.
Axel and Paula inside the Blue Biscuit
Axel at the Blue Biscuit.
Michael and Paula with dinner companions and the mayor
A song from the mayor; instant friends from Terry.
How can it be that we have had time on the planet with these amazing people?

Already told you about Faye, the one-woman history center in Hannibal. Our friends Donny and Ann in St. Louis, so warm and kind. Dancing and howling too late at Red’s Juke Joint with folks from Alabama and parts unknown. A couple from Terry, Mississippi, with whom we shared a table and many stories over dinner in a historic house in Natchez. Instant friends or something like that.

It is an embarrassment of human richness, kindness, and amazing stories that we have encountered down here.

A little vague about folks’ names and stuff because we’re not sure who likes being on the internet—but we love them all.

The latest dispatch now has its own page

Natchez History Nerds

Continue to Natchez →